Wells WI November 2019 meeting report

The main event this month was a talk on gemstones and jewellery from Nicky Houston of Killens Auctioneers, a qualified gemologist.

Nicky said we have been been mining stones from the earth and modifying them since the beginning of time.

Jewellers examine stones using a small light-polarising tool, but antique settings with closed backs that don't let the light through can make this tricky.

The Victorians made doublets - small slivers of garnet, jade or opal stuck onto a base of cheaper rock - to make precious stones go further.

Nicky can usually detect when stones have been heat-treated but it is impossible to tell the difference between natural and synthetic pale blue tourmaline.

The old distinction between precious and semi-precious gems is becoming less important as natural stocks diminish and dealers look for new stones.

Pale pink kyanite is now being marketed in the same way as aquamarine and Tanzanite, a purply blue stone that was marketed by Tiffany's in the 1970s as a poor man's sapphire, is now popular in its own right.

Garnets can be brown, yellow or green as well as dark red, all have the same beautiful sparkle. Industry guidelines dictate how jewels can be described and Killens get a qualified diamond grader to catalogue their items.

Hardness is measured on a scale of 1 (talc), through corundums at 9 (rubies and sapphires), to 10 (diamonds).

However, diamonds are not indestructible - Nicky sees many chipped ones. Emeralds and opals are coated in an oily film and should not be allowed to get wet.

Precious metal prices change in response to global insecurity and yellow gold is making a comeback, perhaps as a more recognisable status symbol than white gold or platinum that could be mistaken for silver.

The potential exploitation of mining industry workers is coming under greater public scrutiny, and some gold is being sold as ethically sourced, but it is hard to substantiate such claims without knowing about workforce wages and safety.

Caution should be exercised before buying gemstones on holiday, emeralds are commonly offered in the Caribbean.

Nicky's advice if making an investment in gemstones is to go to a reputable jeweller, check their qualifications, and get a certificate.

The value of items is subject to changing fashions. The interest in brooches is being boosted by the Duchess of Cambridge wearing some of the Queen's collection.

Auctioneers are finding that pieces made by Grima, popularised by the Queen and Princess Margaret in the 1960s and 1970s, hold their value as well as fashionable mid-century furniture.

Nicky then valued some items brought along by members using her special loupe eye glass and told us more about them.

There was an early 20th century Chinese gilded Jade brooch, and another that contained tiny seed pearls.

Nicky explained that because natural pearls are valued by weight, small ones are usually set whole rather than drilled with holes which would make them lighter and less valuable.

Cultured pearls are measured by size so it's easier to work them into strings and earrings. Natural pearls have become as valuable as diamonds – a string recently sold for more than £1 million.

The only way to tell is by x-ray, which valuers can get done for a fee. We learned that the costs of a piece of jewellery magnify at every stage of the process from mining to cutting to manufacture until, by the time it reaches a retail outlet, the price is many times the value of the original stone. This means that bargains are to be found at auctions.

In other news, we had a Not4Me swap and sale event. Members cleared out their cupboards of perfume, cosmetics, shampoo, vitamins, lotions and potions that they had bought (or been given) but were never going to use, and donations raised a further £34 for the NSPCC, boosting our total donation to £171. Leftover items will be offered to the Wells Youth Hostel for homeless young adults.

Lots of Christmas boxes full of gifts and treats were brought along for distribution to young residents of YMCAs in Somerset.

For some this will be the only Christmas present they get. This year, in response to feedback, we covered our shoe boxes with non-seasonal decorative paper as many recipients keep the boxes to hold personal possessions all year round.

Our next meeting will be on Tuesday December 3 at Wells and Mendip Museum from 7.30pm onwards. Our speaker will be from Roly's Fudge Shop.

New women are always welcome at Wells WI and can attend as guests before deciding whether to join. More details are on our Facebook page via the red button below.

By Veronica Howe